Under-desk cable trays: which type fits your desk

What a cable tray does

A cable tray hangs under the back edge of your desk and holds the power strip, chargers and spare cable that would otherwise lie on the floor. With everything plugged in up there, a single cord runs down to the wall. It looks tidier, it keeps cables away from feet and chair casters, and on a standing desk it means cables move with the desk instead of being yanked.

There are four common types:

This guide focuses on the clamp-on types, because they need no drilling and suit renters. We have not used these trays ourselves; the specifications come from VIVO, StarTech.com and retailer listings, linked at the end.

Quick comparison

Best for most desks: VIVO Clamp-On Under-Desk Cable Trays (2-pack)

Two 17-inch powder-coated steel trays that clamp to the back edge of the desk. The listing gives each tray as 17 x 6.5 x 5 inches, rated for 11 pounds, and compatible with desks 0.4 to 2 inches thick. That size takes a typical power strip plus the bricks plugged into it. Using two trays side by side covers most of a 40 to 48-inch desk.

Best for odd widths: StarTech.com No-Drill Under-Desk Cable Tray

A single steel tray whose length adjusts to about 2.6, 3.3 or 3.9 feet, so one tray can span a small or medium desk. Its clamps fit desks from 0.2 to 2 inches thick, the thinnest range here, which helps with slim desktops. At 4.1 inches wide it is narrower than the VIVO trays, so check that your power strip fits; the listing we checked gives no weight limit.

Best for thick desks and bulky adapters: VIVO Clamp-On Cable Net

A fabric mesh net held by clamps, available in widths from 24 to 55 inches. VIVO lists the 36-inch version at 36.4 x 14.5 inches, holding up to 11 pounds, for desktops 0.6 to 2.8 inches thick. The net shapes itself around odd-sized power bricks better than a rigid tray.

Two cautions from VIVO's page: the clamps need about 8.5 inches of clear space under the desk, and the net hangs 5.5 to 7 inches below the desktop. On a low desk, that can come close to your knees.

How to choose

1. Measure your desk's thickness

Measure the thickness of the desktop where the tray will clamp, including any lip or edge banding. Compare it with each tray's clamp range:

2. Look under the back edge

Clamps need a clear, flat strip under the desk edge. Check for:

• a metal frame or crossbar right at the back (common on standing desks),
• a modesty panel or apron,
• drawers that run to the back.

If the edge is blocked, you may be able to clamp at the sides, or a screw-on tray may be the only option. On a standing desk, see whether the manufacturer sells a tray made for its frame.

3. Measure what goes in it

Measure your power strip's length and width, and the largest charger brick. The tray must take the strip with its cord bent out of one end. Leave space for plugs that stick out of the strip's side.

4. Check legroom

A tray or net reduces the space under the desk. OSHA's desk guidance says the clearance for your legs under the desktop should generally be 20 to 28 inches high. Mount the tray as far back as you can so it sits behind your knees.

Electrical safety under the desk

A tray makes it easy to tidy power, but a few rules matter:

• One power strip, straight into the wall. Oklahoma State University's safety fact sheet warns against daisy chaining, plugging one strip or extension cord into another.
• Do not cover cords or run them under rugs. The Consumer Product Safety Commission notes extension cords can overheat and cause fires, especially when covered or overloaded.
• Leave space around chargers. Bricks get warm. Do not pack them into a closed box or bury them under other cables.
• Use a proper surge protector. See our guide to power strips and surge protectors.

Installing a clamp-on tray

1. Unplug everything and clear the desk.
2. Decide the position: centred behind where your legs go, and as far back as the clamps allow.
3. Fit the clamps loosely, slide the tray into place, then tighten evenly. Do not overtighten on a thin or soft desktop; pads protect the surface but cannot stop a clamp crushing particleboard.
4. Put the power strip in the tray and plug in your devices.
5. Bundle the cable slack with reusable ties and run one cord to the wall. On a standing desk, leave enough slack for the full height.

Our no-drill cable guide covers the rest of the tidy-up: routing cords along legs, labelling plugs and dealing with the monitor cables.

Cable trays on standing desks

Standing desks need extra thought, because everything on and under the desk moves up and down by about 20 inches.

• Mount the power strip in the tray, not on the floor. That way only one cable, the strip's own cord to the wall, needs to cover the full height change.
• Leave a loop of slack in that cord, and check it at full height before you tidy it.
• Check the frame. Many standing desks have a crossbar near the back edge, which can block clamps. Some manufacturers sell trays designed for their own frames.
• Keep the tray light. The weight in the tray counts toward the desk's lifting limit.

Keeping it tidy over time

Once the tray is in, a few habits stop it turning back into a tangle: label each plug with a small tag where it enters the strip, coil spare cable loosely rather than tightly, and leave one outlet free so a new device does not mean a second strip.

Frequently asked questions

Will a tray work on a glass desk? Clamps can crack glass if overtightened, and the published ranges assume a solid top. Check with the desk maker first.

Can I put a laptop dock or hub in the tray? Usually yes, as long as it stays within the weight limit and has air around it.

Is a tray better than adhesive cable clips? Clips are fine for guiding individual cables; a tray is what gets the power strip off the floor.

Which one should you get?